Welcome to 2009 for what looks to be an interesting and challenging year ahead for us all given the global events of late last year.  Despite this, Urban Economics is upbeat about the opportunities and endeavours awaiting us for 2009 as we continue to share our experiences and insights of various urban environments and urban form issues throughout the world.  This month Ashley shares some of his urban experiences that he encountered during his recent trip to Rarotonga – the capital of the Cook Islands.

 

Where is it?

Typically left off the tourist radar in terms popular Pacific Island destinations, the Cook Islands consist of a group of 15 small and largely unspoilt islands (on the other side of the International Date Line) and flanked by Tonga and Samoa to the west and Tahiti and the islands of French Polynesia to the east.  Originally named Hervey Islands by Captain James Cook in 1773, but later renamed in his honour, the small number of tourists who do make the rare stopover are immersed by a lifestyle that exudes warmth, friendliness and a proud sense of culture that the locals are more than open to share and experience with you.  Indeed, I felt fortunate enough to experience all of this and more. 

 

Rarotonga

Rarotonga is the largest island and main access point to the Cook Islands, with the capital Avarua being the main commercial and administrative centre. Encircled by a lagoon that is enriched with wildlife primed for those wanting to do a bit of snorkelling, Rarotonga has an abundance of activities that can be visited and explored within a couple of days.  But that’s only if you are not on Rarotongan time.  With the main island only being a total of 32kms in circumference, it is easy to access and immerse yourself in everything the island has to offer, with an hourly bus service an inexpensive way to ‘do a lap’ of the island.  Should you be willing to get your local motorbike licence and undertake a ‘round-the-bock’ practical test, the benefits of hiring a scooter and exploring every nook and cranny of the island at your own pace (as I did), would be even more rewarding.  

 

From the benefit of hiring out a scooter, I got to see what made this place tick.  Tourism and Agriculture.  With a number of tourist accommodation intermixed amongst to the many townships and farming activity located right throughout island, it is easy to see why it is the Country’s biggest employer (employing over a third of the country’s total workforce).  With tourist numbers reaching 100,000 visitors annually and rising, combined with a country of some 14,000 people and experiencing the effects of depopulation, makes for an interesting outlook for the country as a whole.  What was also really evident on my scooting adventures around Rarotonga (apart from getting overtaken by grandma’s on scooters with a couple of chickens on the back!) was the primitive living conditions that the majority of the population still lives in.  This was in stark contrast to some of the major five star resorts situated across the island.  

 

Town Centre 

The main commercial centre of Avarua has the basic ‘town’ facilities to service the retail and commercial needs of the whole island, with a number of small grocery stores scattered around the island to service the local convenience needs of those situated out-of-town.  With the biggest building in town being a whopping 3 levels, there is not much but your basic supermarket, specialty retail and commercial services, including ANZ and Westpac banks, along the main strip.  A larger supermarket and liquor store have been recently been open on the outskirts of town towards the airport.  The islands main outdoor markets (Punanga Nui Market) is also situated in town, with the biggest market day being Saturday morning, when it is packed with locals selling fresh fruit and vegetables, home-cooked meals, fresh fish, craftwork and textiles, wood carvings and inexpensive jewellery.  Indeed, it is the only place that is open on the weekend where you can buy clothes, as one traveller found out the hard way after arriving on a Friday night with no clothes after the airline lost their bag! 

 

Conclusions

So after a shaky start to my trip to Rarotonga, I found the experiences of the place and the people really inviting and laid back.  From the bus driver who offered me a set of clothes following my airport drama, to the local church concert who invited me to share in their feast, as well as Police Officer who passed me after my stumbling practical test, it was the people who made this trip to Rarotonga an urban excursion to remember.  Although, you might have to get there sooner rather than later as the tempo of the island is gathering speed as the Cook Islands are getting more popular as a South Pacific island tourist destination. 

 

~ Ashley Perkins